[I definitely want to try this!] Shimoda’s kinmedai gourmet and the exquisite travel experience of the Saphir Odoriko | A trip to Izukyu Shimoda with only a 2.5 hour stay（English ver.）

I went to Izu Shimoda. I didn’t particularly desire to visit Shimoda—I just wanted to ride the Saphir Odoriko train. That’s all. Shimoda just happened to be its final stop.

However, since I was going there anyway, I wanted to know what Shimoda had to offer, so I did some research. I discovered that during the Edo period, Perry arrived in Shimoda with his black ships, and that Shimoda has high catches of kinmedai (splendid alfonsino fish). Those were the only notable points.

Although I made a special trip to Shimoda, let me tell you about my hurried yet fulfilling journey with only 2.5 hours to spend there.

Shimoda 2.5-Hour Travel Plan

Touring Shimoda was actually a secondary consideration. My plan was as follows:

• Enjoy the Saphir Odoriko train
• Board the Susquehanna ship
• Eat kinmedai (splendid alfonsino)
• Feel the history at Perry Road
• Return on the 16:01 Odoriko train
• Take the Narita Express between Yokohama and Shinagawa on the way back

This schedule may lack some travel romance, but with only 2.5 hours available, it couldn’t be helped.

I planned to take this limited express train and return according to this itinerary. Yes, I’ll emphasize again that I would only have from 13:29 to 16:01—just 2.5 hours—in Shimoda.

Nevertheless, I had always wanted to ride the Saphir Odoriko at least once in my life.

For those unfamiliar with the Saphir Odoriko, please look at this to appreciate its appeal.

I had a window C seat designed for one person, and to cut to the chase, it was extremely comfortable.

On the Saphir Odoriko, as shown in the diagram, taking a C seat when traveling alone will undoubtedly free you from the annoyance of neighbors and ensure a comfortable journey.

Having already issued my ticket in advance using “Eki-Net,” boarding at my departure station went smoothly.

Learning from my previous experience, I was concerned that eating a substantial boxed lunch would leave no room for my semi-main objective—kinmedai.

So I decided to use ecute and other shops in Shinagawa Station. There I got:

• A butter cheese croquette from Kobe Croquette
• Two inari sushi from Mameda

Just recently, when I took a solo trip to Gifu, I purchased a chicken nanban bento from Tsukada Farm. Shinagawa Station’s interior is truly well-stocked with bento options.

You can see my rushed solo journey to Gifu by checking the link below to enjoy the scenes from my whirlwind Gifu day trip.

And finally, upon boarding my long-awaited Saphir Odoriko, my impression was that it’s an extremely comfortable train. No regrets in my life.

By the way, you can also reach there by Shinkansen.

Now, let’s have an early lunch. This Kobe Croquette is truly delicious—when you cut into it with chopsticks, melted butter flows out. I finished most of it by the time we passed Yokohama.

For a while, I gazed at the scenery passing by the window, but the journey is long and I soon grew tired of the view, so I read a novel. I’m a Harukist who has read all his novels, but “Killing Commendatore” was still unread. Since the previous worldwide sensation “1Q84” completely matched my taste and I felt I hadn’t had enough of Haruki’s world, I hesitated to reach for his latest work for a while. But this one turned out to be quite enjoyable with his world fully displayed.

While thus occupied, the Saphir Odoriko approached Shimoda. At this point, I went to explore the train. At the front Premium Green Car, a celebrity-like view awaits.

I was in a regular Green Car, but it was plenty comfortable. There’s even a compartment. The dining car, which is uncommon, is also attached. Although I could only post official photos due to various circumstances, this gives you the general idea. When passing through the dining car, all staff greeted me with a “Hello~”, adding color to my brief journey.

Finally Arriving in Shimoda (Already Feeling Like Perry)

Shimoda Station is already a place where you can experience the travel mood. Indeed, I felt like Perry. Black ships all the way to the ticket gate. Furthermore, fish such as scorpionfish, threadfin butterflyfish, and moray eels welcomed me, befitting the port town of Shimoda. I was quite busy capturing twin shots of the Saphir Odoriko and regular Odoriko trains.

Exiting the station, more black ships appeared. It’s a town-wide Black Ship Festival. Perry surely felt it was worth coming all the way to Japan.

Boarding the Susquehanna

I couldn’t linger—time was short. Due to time constraints, I hurried to the boarding place for the Susquehanna. The wind was remarkably strong, almost strong enough to blow me away as I walked.

I thought perhaps I would buy seagull feed and play with them on board. But gradually, I had an ominous feeling. I arrived at the boarding place. Alas! As expected, it was canceled. Now it seemed as if I had come all the way to Shimoda just to eat kinmedai. Well, it’s fine—the main purpose was riding the Saphir Odoriko, I reminded myself consolingly. Feeling disappointed, I took a strong photo of the Susquehanna anyway.

Where to Enjoy Shimoda’s Cuisine!

I returned to the roadside station to explore the restaurants, but everywhere was crowded with lines. Let me share some useful gourmet information: When visiting Shimoda, these four restaurants are worth targeting: ■ Kinmeitei for those who want to eat kinmedai simmered whole ■ Sakanaya for those who want kinmedai zuke-don (marinated fish bowl) ■ Shimoda Burger for those who want kinmedai burgers ■ Uodonnya for those who want to enjoy kinmedai sushi

These are based on my personal preferences and research, so others should look into it thoroughly.

Decided on Kinmedai Zuke-don

I decided to check the second-floor souvenir shop before returning. There’s plenty of time—rather, I need to consider how to spend it. Shortly after going down to Sakanaya on the first floor, great—no one was in line.

I promptly ordered the kinmedai zuke-don for ¥1,850.

Oh! The scale pattern of the kinmedai looks fantastic.

I devoured the kinmedai steadily.

And once I finished eating this, there would be nothing left to do in this place. After the meal, I browsed the souvenir area again. I spent about an hour there, but what I bought was a somewhat unremarkable lineup. Yes, it was rather plain. The main souvenirs are, of course, kinmedai and black ship related items.

Improvised Shimoda Sightseeing (Briefly)

Since I had come all this way, I decided to walk out and see the townscape of Shimoda. The wind remained strong. After a little research, I found there was a place called Perry Road—the road walked by Perry, who crossed the Pacific Ocean on a black ship. I promptly decided to go there.

Along the way, unusual houses with namako walls (sea cucumber walls) lined the streets, making me deeply feel the history.

Near the estuary on the way, I could see chinu (black sea bream) swimming, which as a fisherman, made my excitement explode. This might be the highest peak of excitement today. However, despite walking and walking, I couldn’t reach Perry Road.

Strange, I didn’t think it was that far from the station. I checked my watch. The kickoff whistle for the battle against the train’s departure time had sounded. I finally reached this Perry Road. At last! The time was 15:40—cutting it close. Perry Road was nothing special, just like this. A very short street. After taking pictures, I briskly headed back to Izu-Kyuko Shimoda Station to catch the 16:01 Odoriko train. I was drenched in sweat—what kind of exercise was this? At 15:52, the station came into view… but here I spotted an interesting shop—Black Ship Soft Serve Ice Cream…. Despite the lack of time, I ordered one.

“This will melt quickly, so be careful,” I was told, and it started melting right after my first bite. Needless to say, by the time I reached Shimoda Station, my hands were covered in “black ship.” Would I make the train?

Found the Train!

I managed to board at 15:59, just in the nick of time. I breathed a sigh of relief. Walking from Perry Road to Izu-Kyuko Shimoda Station at race-walking pace left me drenched in sweat again. For a while, I absentmindedly watched the ocean scenery flowing past the window. I dozed off from fatigue at some point, and when I came to, we were passing Oiso. Soon after arriving at Yokohama, while waiting on the same platform, the Narita Express promptly arrived.

I deliberately changed trains to ride it for the one stop to Shinagawa. I had always wanted to ride the Narita Express. Thus, arriving at Shinagawa, I accomplished my goal of riding the Saphir Odoriko, and my journey came to an end. I returned home and went to bed enveloped in great but pleasant fatigue. I hope to dream of swimming with kinmedai.

Well then everyone, Have a nice trip!!